Dining Room Cabinets & Bookcase Part 2

When I left off, some time ago now, the bulk of the cabinet had been glued up:

The next steps are to install the top panel and the plinth/kick panel. I started with the latter which had already been cut to the correct width and veneered at one end. With the cabinet glued-up, I can measure the exact length I need for the plinth. I made the cut after subtracting an additional 1/8 of an inch. 

 

The addition of my home made walnut veneer at the cut end brings the length back to the correct amount.

Plinth/kick panel installed:

With that done, the top panel was precisely aligned and clamped.

The top panel and the five upright panels were marked with tape and then slots were cut with the biscuit joiner at the marked locations: 

After that, the top panel was glued up and clamped overnight:

The next day the cabinet was placed face-down and a 3/4 inch deep x 1/2 inch wide rabbit was cut at the rear edge at the cabinet with the handheld router. 

Some sections could not be removed with the rabbiting bit and required an olde fashioned hammer and freshly sharpened chisel:

All done:

This was the point at which this project went on hiatus. While the sun was shining my "workshop time" was devoted to working on the deck project, and then we went out of state for the Christmas holidays.  I returned to the cabinet just before new year - it was pouring with rain at the time so there was no opportunity to work on the deck.

Cut a slightly oversize piece of plywood for the back panel:

After trimming the panel is a very snug fit:

I went with rounded corners this time:

Applied tape to the inside of the back panel and marked where to cut biscuit slots:

All slots cut in the back panel....

...And the cabinet:

The back panel was glued up and clamped and left for a day or two:

This is a few days later after the clamps have been removed and the cabinet has been turned the correct way up. The next step is to construct the face frames and cabinet doors.

To be continued....