After a few days of celebrating Christmas, working on other projects and keeping out of the rain, I was ready to get back to the F250. It was still a bit dull weather-wise, but I decided what the heck, we'll move the truck in front of the garage. There are a couple of reasons why: the driveway slopes less immediately in front of the garage, and I will have half the distance to walk back and forth to my toolbox. To achieve this, I had Amy Sheep tow the F250 up to the street with the Toyota, and then I rolled it back down the hill into the appropriate spot. It took several attempts due to the tow rope coming undone and the truck being super difficult to maneuver with only manual steering.
By the time we were done it was looking quite a bit brighter:
I got a new creeper for Christmas, and I broke it in by sliding under the truck and disconnecting the driveshaft from the transmission. I also disconnected the speedometer cable, removed the bolts from the transmission crossmember and unbolted the transmission from the bell housing. From inside the cab, I removed the shifter boot and the stick. Then I crept back under the truck and drained the transmission fluid. It was getting dark by this point, but there was just enough light left to remove the radiator. This may not be necessary, but will give me more room for maneuver when it's time to lift the engine out, and will prevent the radiator from
being damaged again.
The next day I had Amy Sheep on hand to help. We started by delicately as delicately as possible dropping the transmission with the floor jack....on a slope...and then we removed the hood:
The engine leveler was attached to the front and back of both cylinder heads using a mixture of 7/16 and 1/2-inch bolts. Only two (2) attachment points are necessary, but we used four (4) which gives a little bit more control.
Hooked up the engine hoist:
This is after....it's too dangerous to mess about with a camera while the engine is on the hoist.
I moved the engine into the garage and left it on the dolly while we had a celebratory ham sandwich for lunch. This is the first time I've pulled an engine without an experienced friend on hand to supervise, so I was quite proud of myself....especially because we did it without breaking anything or hurting ourselves. After luncheon I removed the bell housing and the clutch. Getting the fly wheel off was a fight that I had to win alone since Amy Sheep was otherwise occupied.
After that I mounted the engine on a stand and turned it upside down. Since I have two (2) identical engine blocks, I needed to find a why of differentiating between them that doesn't refer to the date of manufacture or the displacement. I came up with "Orange" for the engine that I took out of the truck since it was mounted on an orange stand:
The engine that came from my friend Ninja and will be going back into the truck has a yellow stand, so this one became "Yellow".
The engine blocks are identical, but the shape of the oil pans is quite different; the orange engine has a valley-shaped pan which I will need to transfer to the yellow engine to make it fit into the truck. I also plan to transfer the water pump, the timing pointer and the fuel pump as well as all the other parts I removed before I pulled the engine. The HUGE advantage of having two identical blocks is that all the parts are interchangeable.
Different pan = different oil pickup. What is most interesting is that the oil pickup for the valley pan mounts to a stud that is also a main cap bolt:
I harvested the stud from the orange engine, and at this point I am pretty much done with it. So the orange engine was parked on the other side of the garage, and I moved the yellow engine into pole position.
I want to change the front and rear main seals on the yellow engine while they are accessible, so I had to pull the harmonic balancer and the timing chain cover. I was lucky that the bolt which holds the balancer to the crankshaft was missing from the yellow engine, so removing the balancer with my wheel puller was a piece of cake...I can either buy a replacement bolt, or fight to remove the one on the orange engine. The thing is, the last time I tried to get one of these bolts out, I managed to tip the engine stand over and nearly crushed my left leg. I did get the bolt out though.
This is the bare yellow engine with the timing cover and oil pan removed and the front of the crank shaft visible:
I pulled one main cap and one rod cap and inspected the bearings. There was some wear but nothing serious:
After inspection, I put some assembly lube on the bearings and re-installed both caps. I've been taught that there are only two (2) places a bolt should ever be: on the bench or torqued to spec. All the information for rebuilding these engines and all the various torque specifications are contained in Tom Munroe's books and probably other places too; which book you need depends on your block's displacement. For the '74 302 the spec is 60-70 lb.ft for the main cap bolts and 25 lb.ft for the rod cap bolts.
The next step was to pull the third main cap and replace one of the bolts with the stud that I need for attaching the oil pick up. Before:
After:
You probably think the next bit is installing the oil pickup and oil pan....well, you'd be wrong. The next step was cleaning all the gasket residue and other gunk off the mating surface, and then I carefully masked off the section that would be covered by the oil pan:
The block was rotated the other way up, and the valley was also masked off. I covered the timing chain with a rag, and stuffed paper towels around the edge.
After that, I gave all the exposed sections a really good cleaning, first with soapy water and a wire toothbrush, and then with acetone and rags. I removed as much crud, grease and loose paint from the block as I possibly could. When it was as clean as I could get it, I masked off everything I don't want to paint, and shoved small pieces of paper towel into the spark plug holes. The last person that painted this block also painted the area behind the oil filter, so I decided to stick with tradition.
Stay tuned for painting and re-assembly!