Swapping the Engine in the '67 F250 Part 5

At this point I'm done with the orange engine. I bolted the rusty chrome valve covers back on, which I never liked, installed the oil pan that came off the yellow engine, and mounted it on a dolly. I can store it more easily in this configuration while I figure out what to do with it. 

All of which means it is full speed ahead to re-assemble the yellow engine and get it back into the F250. This is how the engine looked after painting and removing the masking:

The first thing I did after unwrapping the block was change the rear main seal, which I previously did on the Mustang, and the procedure is exactly the same. The oil pickup from the orange engine was installed next and I was careful to add a lock washer where the pickup mounts to the stud at the third main cap:

A quick last look at all the clean parts before I start re-installing them:

Installed a new crank seal at the timing chain cover:

I mentioned in a previous post that a lot of the hardware was missing, and what I do have is not in the best shape. I cut a couple of corners here by purchasing an engine dress up kit - basically a set of stainless-steel bolts.

Installed the timing chain cover with the new hardware. It is important to use anti-seize lubricant when installing stainless steel hardware into steel. Failure to do so allows electron transfer between the block and the fasteners resulting in a solid chemical bond.

The harmonic balancer went on next. I forked out fifteen bucks for a replacement crank bolt instead of trying to fight to salvage the one from the orange engine:

I installed the dipstick tube in the oil pan next - this probably could be done later but is easier to do on the bench.

The oil pan went on next. I was very happy with how the shiny stainless steel hardware looks. Most people would paint the engine after the oil pan and valve covers have been installed. Painting the pan and the timing chain cover separately is a lot more work, but means the bolts do not get painted and gives a custom look which is worth the extra effort. 

The hardware for attaching the engine mounts to the block is typical of the F250: Three original looking bolts and one imposter. If I was making a show vehicle I would have tried to source another original bolt.

After rotating on the stand and removing the rest of the masking:

I'm particularly pleased with the top edge of the cylinder heads - these little bits did not get painted when I built the 351Winsor engine for the Mustang. 

I installed the "Cobra" valve covers that came with the engine. I plan to make my own custom valve covers in the future, but for now these will work. Cobra valve covers are actually quite sort after, so I am confident I will be able to turn them into $$$ in due course. This is as far as I can go with the engine on the stand.

I re-installed the grille on the truck. I don't want to drop the engine in without the grille because it provides a certain amount of structural support.

Re-installed the hood latch pins which I painted off the truck:

And the battery tray:

There were just a few more parts to clean up before I can re-install the engine in the truck:

fly wheel before

after

bell housing before

after.

To be continued....