Replacing the 351W in the '68 Mustang Part 4

Saturday morning after breakfast = garage time! At the end of the last post I had just installed the transmission, and expended much energy getting the transmission crossmember into place and secured. It seemed like a great place to stop at the time. The engine bay is still looking very bare at this point:

However, the position of the engine block is now set, so I got started by cranking down all the bolts at the engine mounts: 

Then I crawled back under the car, re-installed the driveshaft, and reconnected the cables for the park brake, which still needs some minor adjustment.

While I was there, I also re-installed the pitman arm...

...the front crossmember...

...and reconnected the cable clutch, which will also need some minor adjustment later:

I also re-installed the shifter stick and ran through the gears/slots with no obvious issues:

Now, at long last, I can start putting the engine bay back together. The first job was to re-install the headers with some new gaskets:

Both exhaust pipes were reconnected and torqued down:

Re-installed the double-groove pulley at the harmonic balancer:

Added the oil presser sender unit, the fuel pump and filter and connected the fuel lines:

The next thing to go back would be the radiator, but I want to pause the rebuild to add a new component. The Mustang has an MSD electronic ignition, and although I've never had any problems with mine, several friends have suffered with a "known issue" that can prevent the car from starting. The remedy, for a problem I don't think I've ever had, is to install an "inline filter capacitor" at the MSD box. 

The most difficult part of the install was identifying the two wires I need to access and freeing them from the wiring loom. The RED (+ve) wire runs from the MSD box to the +ve battery terminal, and the BLACK (-ve) wire runs from the MSD box to ground at the frame:

As the name implies, the filter capacitor is installed inline which means stripping back about half an inch of the sheathing on each wire...

...and forming a loop which can the wrapped around the terminal:

The two (2) terminals at the filter capacitor are labelled +ve and -ve. The mounting bracket is attached to the inner fender apron with three (3) sheet metal screws:

Progress so far photo:

Progress so far from a distance photo:

To be continued...

Fixing the Steering on the '67 F250

The F250 came to me with, amongst many other issues, some very sloppy steering. It was a constant fight to keep the truck moving in a straight line when I was on the freeway. I solved this exact issue in the '68 Mustang by simply replacing the steering box, which was easy, since that vehicle has always had manual steering.

Unlike the Mustang, the F250 came from the factory with hydraulic power steering - state of the art in 1967, but also a mandatory component since it is almost impossible to turn the steering wheel otherwise. The most straightforward option would be to rebuild or replace the existing steering box. However, a more modern solution would be to convert to electric-powered steering. This is becoming a popular upgrade for vintage Mustangs and is something I plan to do in my '68 in due course.

For the past few months I have been looking into the electric power steering systems offered by EPAS, and have discovered the following:

1. Before upgrading to the electric system, I must first replace the existing steering box with one that would be suitable for manual steering.

2. And because my truck has a manual transmission and therefore a clutch pedal, there is not enough space below the dash to mount the electric motor needed for the steering system.

So...back to option one, either rebuild or replace the hydraulic-style power steering box. Clearly rebuilding is the most eco-friendly option, but it is a specialist operation. I never did find anyone to rebuild the Mustang box. Either way, I still have to pull the steering box out of the truck, so I started there. This was a tough operation that involved the engine hoist, and I had to destroy one of the bolts with a cutting wheel to get it out.

The coupler, or so-called "rag joint" which goes between the box and the steering column was in terrible shape and will be replaced:

A close-up inspection of the steering box gives the casting number which is C7AR-3A587-A which decodes to 1967.  The top plate has two (2) bolts rather than four (4) which indicates the part was manufactured by Bendix for Ford (known on the interwebs as a "Bendix Box," although I could not find a "B" on the casting). 

With this information, I know what I have, and I was able to source a replacement from Classic Industries out of Huntington Beach, CA. This is not a cheap part, but the price is less than the cost of rebuilding. The replacement steering box is on the right; it doesn't leak power steering fluid (yet) so does not need containment.

I used the hoist to get the new steering box into position. This would have been easier if I didn't have to work around the brake lines, but I was in no mood to disconnect them and make yet another job. 

Post-install photo:

The "rag joint" was replaced at the same time and the pitman arm and central steering link were re-installed. I jacked up the front of the truck and tested the steering under manual and all was as it should be.

The next thing to deal with is the power steering pump, which is shown below with the mounting bracket still attached (the old steering box is in the background). The pump just about works, but it makes an awful noise under full lock, so I'm replacing it. The steering pump is actually from what the BAMA guys call a "late model," which means late 1970s or early 1980's. I could replace the pump with a period correct version, but I was concerned that doing so may create other issues and/or need a different mounting bracket, so I'm going like-for-like.

After removing the mounting bracket and most of the hydraulic fluid. The pulley is still attached because it is pressed-on. I could try to remove the pully and press it onto a new steering pump, but it is not in the best shape:

The casting number on the pulley is E0TC-3D673-GA which indicates 1980. This part is not presently reproduced so I had to source an identical original part on the interwebs.

New steering pump and restored/repainted OEM pulley:

I tried to install the pulley with a bolt and a stack of washers and spacers, but I could not get it all the way on:

The solution was to run over to Autozone and pick up a loaner tool - the way this works is you buy the tool, which is not new, and you can return it within 90 days and get a full refund. Or you can just keep it, which is what I plan on doing since it was only $40. I got a spring compressor from Autozone the same way almost ten years ago, and I've used that loads of times.

Power steering pulley installer/removal tool

The new pulley was installed such that the center is flush with the pump spindle, as it was with the old setup.

After installation of the power steering pump/pully with the original mounting bracket and fan belt and replacement of both power steering hoses:

Stay tuned for further developments!

Castro Valley Cruise Night

Castro Valley, CA, birthplace of Cliff Burton and longtime residence of "Big Sick Ugly" Jim Martin, is also the "new" home of the East Bay cruise. The original cruise was outlawed back in the 80s, but was revived in 2019 and has become a full-on event. BAMA always has a big presence at this event.

Beer Can Custom!

Ninja joins the cruise!